Frequently
Asked Questions

No. Our maintenance plans are fixed packages with defined service inclusions, visit frequency and terms.

You choose the plan that best suits your property, but the plans themselves are not customised or individually modified.

If you require work outside your selected plan, we can provide it as an additional scope of works, subject to assessment, quotation, approval, scheduling and additional charges.

Extra services are not added directly into the fixed maintenance plan. If additional work is required, we provide a separate scope of works, estimate or quotation for your approval.

Examples of additional work include:

• Major plumbing repairs
• Electrical repairs requiring specialists
• Air-conditioning servicing or repairs
• Pool repairs
• Roof repairs
• Painting
• Carpentry
• Renovation work
• Appliance replacement
• Pest control
• Deep cleaning
• Garden or landscaping work
• Any work requiring materials, parts, specialist tools or external contractors

Once approved, the additional work is scheduled separately or carried out during the visit where possible.

An additional scope of works means work that falls outside the standard inclusions of your selected maintenance plan.

This may include larger repairs, specialist services, replacement parts, extended labour, or any task that cannot be completed as a minor on-the-spot repair during a scheduled maintenance visit.

We will usually provide details of the recommended work, the estimated cost, the materials required and a timeline before proceeding.

No. Additional works are not included in the monthly maintenance subscription fee. The monthly fee covers the services included in your selected fixed plan only.

Any extra work, materials, parts, consumables, specialist labour, contractor fees, procurement, delivery or extended service time is charged separately after your approval.

No. We do not carry out additional chargeable work without your approval, except in urgent cases where immediate action is required to prevent property damage, safety risks or further loss.

Approval can be given through any approved communication channel: email, WhatsApp, the customer portal, a message, or another method confirmed with our office.

Yes. You may request services outside your fixed maintenance plan. We review the request and confirm whether the work can be provided as an additional scope of works.

If available, the work is quoted separately and is subject to:

• Technician or contractor availability
• Site assessment
• Required materials or parts
• Your approval
• Scheduling
• Additional charges

If a higher fixed maintenance plan is offered, you may request to move to that plan, subject to availability, eligibility, pricing, billing terms and approval by our office.

Plan upgrades do not create a customised plan. They simply move you from one fixed package to another available package.

No. Our maintenance plans are fixed packages. Services cannot be removed, exchanged or reduced in order to lower the monthly subscription fee.

We recommend selecting the fixed plan that best matches your property's needs.

No. Unused services, missed items or unused time within a fixed maintenance plan cannot be exchanged, transferred, credited, refunded or substituted for other work unless we agree in writing.

Additional work outside your selected plan is quoted and charged separately.

If our technician identifies an issue that falls outside your selected plan, we may include it in the maintenance report with recommendations, photos where appropriate, an urgency level and estimated costs where available.

You can then decide whether to approve the additional scope of works.

Specialist services are not included in the standard maintenance plans unless expressly stated in your selected package.

Specialist services may include:

• Licensed electrical work
• Structural work
• Engineering assessments
• Air-conditioning servicing or repairs
• Pool repairs
• Pest control
• Roof repairs
• Appliance repairs
• Waterproofing
• Renovation or construction work

These services may be available separately as additional works.

Yes. Where required, we may recommend, arrange or coordinate third-party contractors for additional specialist work.

Third-party work is separate from your fixed maintenance plan and may be subject to separate pricing, availability, warranties, timelines and approval.

Send the request to our office through WhatsApp, email or the customer portal, with photos where possible. Extra work can be provided as additional works, subject to assessment, availability, quotation, approval and additional charges.

We come back to you with the recommended scope and the cost before anything is scheduled.

Life expectancy varies with climate, and Bali is hard on air conditioners. Constant humidity, salt-laden air near the coast and heavy year-round running hours mean most units here reach the end of their useful life at around 8 to 12 years, rather than the 13 to 15 years quoted in temperate countries.

The practical trigger is usually cost: once a unit needs a major repair, such as a compressor or a leaking coil, replacement is often the better investment. Falling cooling performance, rising electricity bills and repeated call-outs all point the same way.

The main job of an air conditioner is to remove moisture from the air and drain it away. In Bali it removes a great deal of it, so drainage problems are the most common cause of leaks.

Usually the drain line is blocked by dust, dirt or algae, particularly where filters are not cleaned often. The second cause is more serious: ice. When refrigerant is low or airflow is restricted, the indoor coil freezes, water collects, turns to ice, pushes past the drain tray and then defrosts inside your ceiling or wall.

That water can soak plaster, feed mould and reach electronics. Switch the unit off, inspect with a torch, and call a technician before the damage spreads.

Once a year is the standard in a cool climate. In Bali it is not enough. Humidity, dust, construction work and salt air load up filters and coils far faster, so we recommend servicing every three months for units in regular use.

Regular servicing keeps the system clean, efficient and safe, and it catches small faults before they become a failure during the hottest week of the year.

Coils should be cleaned at every service — quarterly for most Bali properties, and more often for villas near the beach or beside a building site.

During a clean, the technician checks the coil for fouling and leaks, verifies refrigerant levels, and inspects electrical components for safety and performance. Filters are cleaned or replaced at the same time, and it is worth rinsing indoor filters yourself between visits.

Before you are forced to. If a unit is swallowing repair money, replace it before the hot, dry months and before your high season arrives, when both technicians and stock are in demand.

Planned replacement is always cheaper and less disruptive than an emergency one with guests in the villa.

If you are buying new, request several estimates from qualified installers and compare on three points:

• The company's reputation, skill and track record
• Reviews and the quality of the manufacturer
• Pricing, balanced against a properly qualified installation

Avoid do-it-yourself work or an unqualified handyman: it usually voids the manufacturer's warranty and the poor pipework, vacuum and gas charge that follow will cost you more in electricity and repairs than you saved on the install.

Yes. For reliable performance an air conditioner needs regular service. A service includes cleaning the condenser and indoor coils, testing refrigerant levels, inspecting blower and fan components, clearing the drain, and checking for leaks and debris.

Skipping maintenance reduces cooling, raises your electricity bill and leads directly to expensive repairs.

Yes, and in Bali they need it most. Keep the outdoor unit clean and clear of leaves, debris and garden growth. Cleaning filters, coils and the condenser, and checking electrical components and refrigerant lines, keeps the system at peak performance.

Coastal properties should also have the outdoor unit rinsed of salt deposits, which corrode fins and shorten its life.

A split system separates the unit into two parts: an indoor wall-mounted or cassette unit, and an outdoor condensing unit, connected by small refrigerant pipes. There is no ductwork.

Almost every villa, apartment and office in Bali uses splits, because they suit open-plan tropical architecture and let each room have its own unit and its own temperature control. That also means you only cool the rooms you are actually using.

Get a quote from a qualified installer who calculates the correct capacity for the room rather than guessing at a PK rating. An undersized unit runs constantly and never gets there; an oversized one short-cycles, fails to dehumidify and leaves the room cold and clammy.

Then consider how long you will keep the property. For a long hold, an inverter unit with a good energy rating pays for itself in reduced electricity. For a short hold, a simpler model may make more sense.

Choose a brand with real service support and spare parts in Indonesia — that matters far more here than a small difference in specification.

A properly maintained unit in Bali will typically give 8 to 12 years. Neglect cuts that dramatically, in the same way that skipping oil changes shortens the life of a car engine.

Dirty coils force the compressor to work harder against higher pressures, and the compressor is the part you cannot afford to lose.

Do not wrap it. Outdoor units are built for rain and need free airflow; sealing one in traps moisture, encourages corrosion and gives geckos and rodents somewhere to nest.

What does help in Bali is practical: keep it shaded from direct afternoon sun, keep leaves and vegetation clear of the fins, make sure the ground around it drains and never floods, and rinse salt off the casing if you are close to the beach.

On most split units the front panel lifts open and the mesh filters slide out. Rinse them under running water, let them dry completely in the shade, then refit. Never refit a damp filter and never dry them in direct sun, which warps the frame.

In Bali we suggest doing this every two weeks in a busy villa. It is the single cheapest thing you can do for cooling performance and air quality. Anything beyond the filters — coils, drain, gas — should be left to a technician.

The indoor unit blows room air across a cold coil. The refrigerant in that coil absorbs the heat and the moisture, which drains away as condensate. The now-warm refrigerant travels outside, where the condensing unit releases that heat into the open air and returns the refrigerant, cooled, to start again.

An air conditioner does not make cold. It moves heat out of the room, which is why a blocked or dirty outdoor unit ruins performance indoors.

Both. A split system needs the indoor unit and the outdoor condenser working as a matched pair. They are sold, sized and installed together, and the pipe run between them has a maximum length that affects where they can go.

Every property is different, so the right answer comes from a site visit and a proper cooling load calculation: floor area, ceiling height, glazing, wall orientation, insulation, how many people use the room and how open it is to the outside.

Bali-specific rules of thumb: avoid west-facing walls that take the full afternoon sun, do not aim the indoor unit directly at the bed, keep the outdoor unit shaded and ventilated, and keep the condensate drain running to a proper outlet rather than a garden bed.

A straight replacement onto existing pipework and brackets usually takes four to six hours. Allow longer if the pipe run, drain, brackets or electrical supply need to be replaced, or if the unit is going into a new position that requires core drilling and chasing.

Urgent requests go through our WhatsApp line and are triaged as they arrive. In most cases we can attend the same day, and out-of-hours calls are passed to an on-call technician for genuinely urgent situations such as water ingress, a total failure with guests in residence, or anything with a safety risk.

Subscription clients are prioritised in the schedule.

Rinse the filters regularly, keep the outdoor unit clear of leaves and garden growth, and do not set the thermostat to 16°C in the belief that it cools faster — it does not, it just runs the compressor longer and costs more.

Use ceiling fans alongside the AC, close doors and windows to the rooms you are cooling, and book professional servicing on a fixed cycle rather than waiting for a problem.

Our air-conditioning work is carried out by trained refrigeration technicians who handle refrigerant recovery and charging correctly, not by general handymen. Electrical work that requires a licensed specialist is referred to one.

Every job is logged, reported and supervised by our office, so you get a written record of what was done rather than a verbal assurance at the gate.

Pet hair blocks filters far faster, so shorten the interval between cleans. Vacuum around the indoor units and keep the outdoor unit's intake clear of fur and dust.

An air purifier helps in closed, air-conditioned rooms, and opening the villa up for fresh air during the cooler part of the day makes a noticeable difference to indoor air quality.

Keep the system clean: a fouled coil is the most expensive thing in your electricity bill. Then set a sensible temperature, around 24 to 25°C, and let ceiling fans do the rest — moving air feels several degrees cooler than still air.

Close curtains or blinds against the afternoon sun, keep doors and windows shut in cooled rooms, and switch units off in rooms nobody is using. On a villa with several units, that alone is a significant monthly saving.

R-22, often called Freon, is the old refrigerant. It damages the ozone layer and is being phased out worldwide under the Montreal Protocol, so supply is shrinking and the price keeps climbing.

R-410A replaced it in most modern split systems, and R-32 is now the common choice on new units sold in Indonesia because it is more efficient and has a lower global-warming impact.

They are not interchangeable. If your unit still runs on R-22 and develops a leak, topping it up is a short-term fix at best, and replacement is usually the sensible decision.

Manufacturers generally recommend every 12 to 18 months. In Bali we suggest every 6 to 12 months, because humidity, open-air living and fine volcanic dust load fibres much faster than in a temperate climate.

Letting soil build up mats the pile and grinds the fibres, which shortens the life of the carpet. The point of a cleaning cycle is to clean before it looks dirty, not after.

Regular cleaning preserves appearance, extends lifespan, brings colours back and gives a healthier indoor environment — which matters more in a humid climate where dust mites and mould spores thrive.

Neglect leads to premature wear and permanent damage. Professional cleaning protects the investment already sitting on your floor.

Drying depends on soil level, the amount of water used, airflow, temperature and humidity. With hot water extraction, expect roughly 4 to 12 hours; Bali's humidity sits at the longer end of that range, especially in the wet season.

We include free blow-drying with high-powered turbo dryers to speed this up, and running the air conditioning in a closed room afterwards makes a real difference. Our dry-cleaning process is usually touch-dry within 30 minutes to an hour.

No. Professional cleaning solutions are tested for safety and environmental impact, and we use only high-quality, environmentally friendly products.

As a precaution, keep children and pets off damp carpet until it is fully dry, to avoid slips and to stop fresh soil being walked back in.

No. Our detergents are high quality and thoroughly rinsed out, so no sticky residue is left behind to attract dirt. That sticky-residue problem is what makes badly cleaned carpets look dirty again within weeks.

With the right machinery and chemistry, carpets and fabrics stay cleaner for longer.

Yes. We work with all rug types, including wool, silk-blend and handmade pieces. Rugs can be cleaned on site, and our trained technicians test for colour fastness before any solution goes near the pile.

We are happy to move furniture. Heavy or fixed items such as wardrobes and bookcases are normally cleaned around, since very little soil collects beneath them.

Sofas, tables, televisions and similar items are moved and put back as part of the service.

You can, but the risks are real: dye bleeding, shrinkage and overwetting, which in Bali's humidity can leave a carpet damp long enough to grow mould in the backing.

Hire machines also tend to use sticky, low-grade chemicals with weak extraction. Professional technicians use controlled processes, high-powered equipment and industry-grade products, which is the difference between a clean carpet and a damaged one.

We recommend a professional clean-and-feed treatment every 12 months in Bali, and every 6 to 12 months near the coast, where salt air and humidity dry out and mark the hide faster.

Regular feeding preserves the finish and can noticeably revive older pieces.

Price differences come down to equipment, chemicals and training. We choose the machinery and products we believe are the best available rather than the cheapest, and our technicians are trained on them.

Higher standards carry higher overheads, but they deliver a deeper clean, a safer process for your fabrics and better value across the life of the carpet.

Every job is different. After a few questions over WhatsApp or a quick look on site, we give you an accurate time estimate before any work begins.

Yes. Office and commercial work is usually scheduled for evenings or weekends so we do not interrupt trading.

For villas, we also work around guest changeovers, which for most rental properties is the only window that actually works.

Yes. Included as standard:

• Free blow-drying with turbo dryers
• Free deodorising and degreasing with our steam clean service
• Cleaning, deodorising, stain-blocking and heat-drying with our dry-cleaning service

No. Our processes are safe and low-risk, and we protect skirtings, doorways and adjacent surfaces with sheeting where needed.

In many cases the machine itself can sit outside the room being cleaned, which keeps noise and disruption away from the rest of the property.

We assess the site and build a maintenance programme around it. Frequency depends on foot traffic, headcount, the type of work, entrance points and daily routines.

The plan is tailored to your needs and your budget rather than sold as a fixed interval.

No. We clean safely around desks, cabling and electrical equipment. The main traffic lanes get the most attention, since that is where almost all the soil sits.

Yes. Most quotes can be given over WhatsApp from room sizes, a few photos and a handful of questions. Large offices or heavily soiled jobs may need a short site visit first.

Yes. Fringes are cleaned with specialised agents and restored to the highest standard the fibre allows. Where fringes are already yellowed or fragile, we will tell you what result to expect before we start.

Both options are available. Rugs can be cleaned in place, or collected and returned once cleaned and fully dried. On-site cleaning is often more cost-effective and avoids the rug being out of the room for days.

They do not stop a carpet getting dirty, and anyone promising that is overselling. What a correctly applied protector does is buy you time on spills, so they can be blotted before they become stains, and it reduces abrasive wear on the fibre.

Pet urine leaves alkaline salts that never fully dry out. They pull moisture from the air — a constant supply in Bali — and feed the bacteria that cause the smell and the staining.

Minor cases are treated with enzyme and germicidal solutions that break down the source rather than mask it. Severe contamination may require replacement of the underlay, padding or upholstery backing, and we will say so honestly rather than repeat-cleaning something that will never come clean.

Usually, yes. A musty smell means moisture has been sitting in the fibres or the backing long enough for mould and bacteria to establish. Surface deodorisers only hide it.

We clean, treat with antimicrobial and deodorising solutions, then force-dry the piece properly, which is the step most people skip. If mould has already damaged the backing, we will tell you straight rather than sell you a clean that will not hold.

Professional cleaning removes odours, lifts stubborn stains and extends the life of the furniture. In an open-air Bali villa, sofas absorb dust, humidity, sunscreen and salt far faster than they would indoors elsewhere.

Regular cleaning keeps fabrics looking fresh and keeps the piece hygienic rather than simply presentable.

No, particularly measured against the alternative. Cleaning costs a fraction of replacing a sofa that has been left too long, and good furniture in Bali is neither cheap nor quick to replace.

Ask us for an estimate and you will have the exact figure before committing.

It depends on the method used, the fabric and the drying requirement. Your technician gives you a clear estimated timeframe before starting, so you can plan around it.

It should not. We schedule around your trading hours, or build a rolling programme that cleans a section at a time.

Drying times are confirmed in advance so nothing is out of use unexpectedly.

We do not recommend it. Household products can bleach, set the stain or leave a permanent ring that is harder to remove than the original mark.

Blot with a clean white cloth, do not rub, and ask us for a safe spot-removal solution for that specific fabric.

Most manufacturers recommend every 12 to 24 months. For a Bali villa in regular use, and especially for rental properties, every 6 to 12 months is more realistic.

Drying time varies with the method and the fabric. On average upholstery is ready to use within 1 to 6 hours. Running the air conditioning in the room shortens that considerably in humid conditions.

You may notice a faint scent depending on the fabric. It normally clears within about an hour, depending on airflow, temperature and humidity in the room.

Very little. Clear books, décor, throws and personal belongings from the furniture so the technician has full access, and let us know in advance about any stain you particularly want treated and what caused it.

With the right tools and the right questions. A simple drain snake handles a straightforward clog; more serious problems need CCTV camera inspection, a water jetter or drain rods.

We start by asking where the blockage shows itself and how it behaves, which usually tells us whether we are dealing with a local clog, a fat and debris build-up, or root infiltration in the run outside. Our vans carry the equipment to diagnose it and clear it properly, not just push it further down the line.

Bali gets the sunshine to make solar hot water genuinely worthwhile. These systems cut electricity consumption, lower your PLN bill and reduce emissions, and they are far tidier on a roof than a large traditional tank.

The installation cost looks high on day one, but on a villa with steady hot-water demand the system typically pays for itself over its working life.

A sudden jump almost always means something underneath has changed. The usual causes are:

• Leaking toilets, taps, irrigation lines or underground pipes
• Old or inefficient fixtures
• A change in use — more guests, more laundry, topping up the pool
• Habits: long showers, taps left running, overwatering the garden
• A burst or hidden pipe

To test for a leak, turn off every tap and appliance, then check the meter. If it is still turning, or if your bore pump keeps cycling with nothing running, call us — that is water disappearing into the ground and, often, into a wall.

Yes. It wastes a surprising volume of water over a month, and more importantly it tells you something in the system has failed: a worn O-ring, a corroded valve, a spent washer, or pressure problems further back.

It is a cheap fix now and an expensive one later.

Drains are designed to keep smells out. Every one has a U-shaped trap holding a small amount of water, and that water is the seal that stops sewer gas rising into the room.

In Bali the usual culprit is evaporation: a guest bathroom or spare shower goes unused for a few weeks in the heat, the trap dries out, and the seal is gone. Pour a jug of water down any drain you rarely use and the smell normally disappears within minutes.

If it persists, the problem is deeper — a venting fault, a damaged trap or a partial blockage — and needs inspection.

Repeated repairs are the clearest signal. Alongside that, watch for:

• Water that no longer gets as hot as it used to
• Slow recovery between showers
• Age — units past 10 years are usually well down on efficiency, and it shows on your electricity bill
• Rust in the water or corrosion visible at the fittings

Replacing an old unit with a modern, efficient model often pays back a meaningful part of the cost in running savings.

That is water hammer: the shock wave created when fast-moving water is stopped abruptly. Several things can cause it, and identifying the right one matters, because most do-it-yourself remedies either do nothing or make it worse.

Left alone, water hammer stresses joints and fixings, and can eventually split a pipe — which in a villa means flooding, damaged finishes and a very large water bill. A qualified plumber can diagnose it quickly and fix the actual cause.